These books chronicle my cycling and hiking journey across New Zealand to inspire your desire to travel. They combine on-the-road photography with a running narrative to tell the adventure saga in a click-through visual storyline. They provide an insight into my passion for cycle touring, from pedaling across amazing landscapes to summiting mountain peaks and being comfortably lost.
Pro Tip: If you’ve got more muscle than money, I highly recommend visiting New Zealand by bicycle with camping gear. NZ is amazing for bike-packing as it has quality roads with light traffic, abundance of quality campgrounds, and remarkable scenery with every kilometer. From epic national parks to Maori folklore and Hobbit mythology, NZ is a majestic land waiting to be explored.
In this series premiere, I will be in transit from the USA to New Zealand – eagerly anticipating Auckland. First, I will have an eight-hour layover in San Francisco to visit Chinatown, ride a historic trolley, and eat some scrumptious seafood at Fisherman’s Wharf. Next, I’ll lose a day in transit flying to New Zealand, and then take a few days to wander around the capital city; being amazed by the views from the 220-meter (722-foot) tall Sky Tower.
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Extract: Traveling directly from a rural farm in Kansas to a major metropolitan city was overwhelming to all my senses. The bright colors, exotic smells, and curious sounds were very distracting to my mind and I kept getting disoriented. I stopped in the shade of an oak tree and admitted: “I’m a stranger in a strange land.” This immediately calmed my anxiety; allowing me to clearly observe my surroundings without judgment and just follow my curiosity wherever it leads – being happily lost.
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Amazon Reviewer Wrote:
“Mr. Plumlee is not just writing a book, he is experiencing the journey and taking you with him. The photography is stunning and gives you the sense wonder that most travel books leave behind. This was a very inspiring and fun read.” – Carla Funk
“Highly entertaining travel book with colorful narrative and beautiful photography.” – Brooks Orlando
“The magic if this book is that it transported me to places that I can’t visit myself ! Giving me an insight to a journey that is beyond my reach. I love the whole experience and stunning photographs. I am eagerly looking forward to more.” – Jan Kent
Goodreads Reviewer Wrote:
“Very interesting places to explore someday. You’re getting better and will be famous soon. Keep writing…avid fan here.” – MD Ebarle
“An easy and leisurely read, the photos are crisp and clear, Scott’s adventures are very reflective of the man. He finds the most interesting places and pieces of artwork, from a “Cloud” Building to Maori symbols incorporated into sidewalks.” – Jerry Beeman
In this second chapter, I will be cycling around the Coromandel Peninsula to explore its legendary thermal coastline, and hope I can stay on the left side of the road. After a grueling mountain pass, I soaked in the thermal pools at Hot Water Beach, visited epic rock formations at Cathedral Cove, and then pedaled south to a picturesque campsite along the Tairua River. Taking a break from the saddle, I’ll explore an old gold mine with iridescent green glow-worms.
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Extract: I’m almost out of steam as I climb the last hill to my destination, feeling every stroke in my aching calf muscles. After pitching my tent, I went to discover that Hot Water Beach is aptly named because if you dig a hole in the sand, it fills up with thermally heated water. Soaking in a thermal pool, listening to the ocean waves, and watching the sunset fade way – what an amazing reward for my efforts, as I pedaled like a champ over the mountains today.
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Amazon Reviewer Wrote:
“In this short travelogue we are transported to the lovely island nation of New Zealand. We see gorgeous scenery as we read about the author’s adventurous journey cycling across the island. The script is short, but the pictures are worth many thousands of words. The desire to visit this incredible place has begun!” -Teri Halstead
“Once again Scott David Plumlee has worked his magic! I love these books as they transport me on a journey that is not possible to take myself.” – Janet Kent
Goodreads Reviewer Wrote:
“Absolutely delightful! New Zealand is now on my Bucket List, thanks to David’s enthusiastic narrative and stunning photos.” – Carys
In this third volume, I’ll be cycling over the Coromandel Mountain Range and then down to the town of Thames, where I can join the Hauraki Rail Trail. Next, I’ll cycle south into the famous Karangahake Gorge to hike the Windows Walkway Loop around an abandoned gold mine, and finally cycle to Wairere to hike up to its stunning waterfall.
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Extract: Back in the saddle and pedaling down the left side of the road again, I am thankful for the overcast skies as the sun can be so intense here! I’m now heading westward up over the Coromandel Mountain Range and then down to Thames to join up with a railway trail.
In this fourth volume, I’ll be cycling with great anticipation to the town of Matamata where I take a shuttle to the Hobbiton Shire, which was built for The Lord of the Rings movie series. From Bilbo Baggins’ home, over the cobblestone bridge, and into the Green Dragon Tavern for a pint; the attention to detail in this fairy-tale comes to life is amazing.
Amazon Reviewer Wrote:
“Great experience!! This was good I liked that picture they were amazing at all time they were the best I know. Fun to follow along on the author’s adventure through his photo journal. Will be perfect for an upcoming trip. Looks nice, too. thanks.” – Blake J. Reece
In this fifth volume, I’ll be cycling south to the volcanically active town of Rotorua with pools of bubbling mud, shooting geysers, and lots of natural hot springs to soak in. Next I’ll cycle out to Lake Okareka to start a four-day hike along the coastline of several lakes to visit the 100-meter Tarawera Waterfall, and figure out what a ‘Trig’ is.
Extract: Blue skies, brutal UV light, and serious heat coming off the blacktop. I stopped along the way for water and a Snickers, when I met a Canadian girl who laughed my jokes. I cycled onward over many rolling hills and faced a huge climb where I had to push my bike for half an hour. After taking a break in the shade, I was looking for my sunglasses and I realized they were on my face – that’s how bright it is here in New Zealand.
In this sixth volume, I am cycling east from Rotorua past a series of stunning lakes to the north coast town of Opotiki to camp and soak at the amazing Awakeri Hot Springs. Next, I’ll be pedaling through the jaw-dropping Waioeka Gorge, past the fabled Rere Waterfalls, and onto the east coast beach town of Gisborne for Christmas.
Extract: Today, I cycled 80km (50 miles) from Rotorua to Awakeri Hot Springs for a lush campsite. I happily soaked in these majestic hot pools for several hours, took a long shower, and then cooked a luscious pasta dinner with tuna, red sauce, and parmesan cheese – yum!
In this seventh volume, I’ll be cycling south along the coast from Gisborne up into the mountains to soak at the Morere Hot Springs. Next, I’ll be pedaling inland up to the legendary Lake Waikaremoana with its huge climbs, pouring rains, and 120-foot waterfalls. Finally, I’ll be riding through Murupara to the Waikite Thermal Pools for New Year’s Eve.
Extract: Today, I rode 72km (45 miles) to the Waikite Thermal Pools, arriving at 5pm and luckily they had one camping spot for me. I pitched my tent, laid out my sleeping bag to dry, and all my gear on a line in the sun. Now, I’m soaking in the pools with a stunning view. This place is heaven and well deserved after another 5-day, 325km (200 mile) bike ride. It’s New Year’s Eve and some people at the campgrounds are drinking and lighting fireworks, but honestly I’m content being alone with my thoughts. Osho said: “The capacity to be alone is the capacity to truly love; without possession, expectation, or addiction to others.”
In this eighth volume, I’ll be cycling south from the Waikite Thermal Pools to the town of Taupo to see a movie, drink a beer, and enjoy some civilization. Next I’ll be pedaling along the coast of Lake Taupo to the city of Turangi where I get happily distracted by a pretty girl and make plans to hike the mythical Tongariro Alpine Crossing.
Extract: Today, I only cycled 45km and I was planning to go further. Yet, as I arrived in Turangi and pulled into the city center, I saw Manja sitting on the lawn of the iSite center waiting for me. Apparently she had hitched-hiked here and had just passed me on the road. I knew it was meant to be and decided to stay the night with her at a local campsite and then hike the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, before I continue my journey westward to Mount Taranaki.
In this ninth volume, I’ll be hiking the 20km (13 mile) length of the mythical Tongariro Alpine Crossing with some new friends. We will be hiking past active volcanoes, red-lipped craters, emerald-green lakes, steaming thermal vents, cobalt-blue lakes, and I may find time to stand on my head.
Extract: The sun in New Zealand is very strong and you might think it’s warm, but it’s actually very cold as the hike starts at 1100 meters (3,600’) and climbs up to 1886 meters (6,188’) – burr. Just up from Ketetahi Hut is a thermal hot spring, which was perfect for soaking my sore feet. After hiking downhill for an hour, we came down 1000- meters from the high altitude dry alpine environment into to a lush and humid jungle to the Ketetahi Carpark where we met with the shuttle bus that took us back to Turangi.
In this tenth volume, I’ll be cycling across the North Island from Turangi to Stratford along the infamous Lost World Highway. Along the way I will be climbing up a half dozen mountains, passing through the beautiful Tangarakau Gorge, rolling my eyes at the ever-present rain, and pedaling past lots of sheep, cattle, and a few goats.
Extract: Today is a hill-climbing extravaganza as this is the second of three saddles to cycle up and over. The awesome views from the top always outweigh the sweat and toil it took to pedal uphill. I cycled 89km (55 miles) today through blue skies and pouring rain to finally arrive at a wonderful campsite by the Whanguanui River. I pitched my tent during a break in the rain, got water from the cistern system, and met a family of river rafters that were staying at the site. I cooked a heavenly pasta dinner with tuna and pesto, wrote in my journal, and read my Papillon book till I couldn’t keep my eyes open.
In this 11th volume, I’ll be hiking across the southeast face of Mount Taranaki. I start my adventure at the East Edmont Ski Resort and then hike along the Enchanted Track, crossing a 60-foot-high swing bridge to the Waingongoro Hut. Then I’ll continue to the Wilkies Pools, down through the Goblin Forest and onto the Dawson Falls.
Extract: I love it when a hike starts out with a Danger Zone sign. It lets me know I’m at the right place. I love the feeling of being eye-level with the clouds – like I’m getting a glimpse into heaven. In this tropical forest, every inch is covered in a thick blanket of mosses, lichens, and ferns. Welcome to the Goblin Forest, a hiking trail from the Wilkies Pools down to the Dawson Visitor Center. Walking this trail was a uniquely surreal experience. I was mystified by the spooky trees that loom ominously over a thick fern forest. Thankfully, the trail is very smooth or you would fall on your face while looking up at the mesmerizing colors and textures of the different mosses, ferns, and lichen that hangs from the twisting branches of the canopy.
In this 12th volume, I’ll be cycling south from Mount Taranaki down to Wanganui, where I will take a side trip through the breathtaking Wanganui River Valley. Then I’ll continue south along the coastline, cycling with a new friend from Switzerland, camping on a few beaches along the way down to the capital city of Wellington.
Extract: Today, I cycled 132km (82 miles) to Wanganui, found a cheap campsite behind an old pub, took a hot shower, had a plate of fish-n-chips with a pint of beer, and went directly to sleep. Up at 6am with the first light, made coffee and a protein shake, great yoga session, cleaned water, packed my gear, and started cycling south with Reinhold at 9am. We didn’t get 5km when Reinhold had a flat tire. Here, he’s patching the tube from his tire. Ironically, just 100-meters down the road, my back tire went flat. What are the odds? I couldn’t help thinking we were being purposely delayed by divine intervention. Perhaps we were being saved from a dunk driver’s accident waiting to happen just down the road.
In this 13th volume, I’ll be enjoying a rejuvenating four days in the capital city of Wellington. I’ll start my adventure by taking a train into the downtown station, savoring the first hostel bed in six weeks, and discovering the amazing sculptures along the harbor boardwalk. Next, I’ll take a cable car up to the planetarium, visit a rose garden, take in a professional football game, and tour the Te Papa Museum.
Extract: I got a dorm bed at a hostel, locked up my bike, and then went to have one last cup of coffee with my Swiss friend Reinhold as he waited for his friends to come pick him up. Although we only cycled together for a few days, it was nice to share the trials and tribulations of road life with such a beautiful soul. It is quite nice to be back in civilization, as I had missed the convenience of city life. They say you never truly appreciate a glass of water until you have been thirsty. I’m not a sports fan, but a German guy at the hostel had an extra ticket to a football game. Football is way more exciting than I gave it credit and the Wellington team won.
In this 14th volume, I’ll be hiking 71km of the Queen Charlotte Track with three Danish friends. I’ll start my adventure by taking a ferry from Wellington to Picton on the South Island, and then a water taxi out to Ship Cove. We will journey for four days through the rain, drizzle, fog, and sunshine; hiking past waterfalls, stunning views, strange flowers, reddish-orange mushrooms, and a few thieving Weka birds.
Extract: I arrived in Picton at Noon, stored my bike at a hostel, and bought a one-way ticket to Ship Cove at the end of the Queen Charlotte Track, where I’m planning to hike four days back to Picton. As we traveled onward, the rain subsided to a light drizzle. The section we walked was a strange forest of ferns and flowers. At 6pm we reached Camp Bay where we pitched our tents, cooked dinners, and then went to the local bar for a few pints of beer and so many great jokes. What a fun-loving group. I am deeply thankful for the opportunity to have met these three Danes as they have been such a pleasure to hike with.
In this 15th volume, I’ll be hiking 45km of the Able Tasman Track. I’ll start my adventure by cycling from Picton to Motueka, taking a bus to Marahau, and then a water taxi out to Totaranaui Beach. We will hike for three days along pristine beaches, over fern forest hills, crossing tidal estuaries, and enjoying all the amazing views of the Tasman Sea.
Extract: Up at 6am with first light, made a coffee-n-protein shake, extra long yoga session for my sore legs, took the 8am bus out to Marahau, and then a 9am boat up the spellbinding Abel Tasman coastline to Totaranui where we start hiking at 11am. Upon arrival at Totaranui Beach, each passenger had to walk the plank from boat to beach. The Abel Tasman Track requires you to cross the Awaroa Estuary, which is only passable only during low tide, and then still had an ice-cold and knee-deep river to wade through. At Bark Bay instead of wading through the tidal estuary, there is a huge suspension bridge.
In this 16th volume, I will be cycling to Arnaud to go hiking in the Nelson Lakes National Park up to Angelus Hut. We will hike for two action-packed days along rocky lake shores, past 40-meter waterfalls, through mossy beech forests, and up above tree line on steep trails to an amazing hut next to twin alpine lakes nestled in a breathtaking valley.
Extract: Today, we cycled 79km (49 miles) in the intense heat up into the Kahurangi Mountains. We stopped for a Coke at yet another town I cannot pronounce and then pushed on to a free campsite at Norris Gully. I cooked a pasta dinner, and so ready for a good sleep. Up at 6am to drizzling rain, made a coffee-n-protein shake in my tent and read for awhile until the sun came out at 8am. We stored our bikes and panniers at the hostel in town, bought a meat pie to go, and started hiking at 10am from Saint Arnaud. Heard before seen, the 40-meter (130 feet) tall Whisky Falls are just off of the Lakeside Track. The deafening sound of water and soothing mist on my sunburnt skin was just glorious to behold. According to legend, the falls are named after an illicit liquor still that was found here in the 1880’s.
In this 17th volume, I’ll be summiting Mount Angelus in the Nelson Lakes National Park from the Angelus Hut. We will climb past blue alpine lakes up an impossibly steep scree-slope to the 2075-meter summit. After a second night at the hut, we will hike a stunning ridgeline up above the clouds over Mount Roberts and then down to Saint Arnaud.
Extract: Up at 6am to a misty morning, had coffee, and lead a yoga class for Andy. We set off at 8am to hike from Angelus Hut up to the 2075m summit of Mount Angelus. When the fog lifted, we could clearly see Mount Angelus in the lake’s mirror reflection. Although only six kilometers away, the towering mountain peak seemed much farther. After hiked over a ridgeline, we could see the next pair of emerald-green twin lakes. Walking around the side of the left lake, we found a thin trail leading up to the summit. Andy, being the continual optimist, laughed at my laziness and pressed onward up to the summit. I wanted to quit and go back downhill, but when Andy called from the top, I knew I had to go uphill. The Tao Te Ching states that some people will serve as an example of who you want to become. Andy selflessly provided this example, motivating me to hike the last 100 yards up to the summit.
In this 18th volume, I’ll be cycling through the desolate alpine valleys of the Rainbow Crossing to Hanmer Springs. We will be pedaling for three days against ice-cold headwinds, across corrugated-rough gravel roads, while battling fierce sandflies at our campsites, and then being rewarded with a soak in the Hanmer Hot Springs.
Extract: The dark storm clouds are rolling in and it has me worried because the weather predicts snow down to 900 meters, and I don’t have the camping gear or willpower to camp in the snow. Hopefully, this storm will just pass by and leave us dry at this lower elevation. As the scenery increases in jaw-dropping amazement, the gravel road seems to get rougher! After taking a picture of this beautiful butterfly, I paused in reflection on the fact that this delicate insect braved the intense sun and cold winds with out concern or complaint. This perspective helped me to realize that my complaints about the harsh environment were being in denial of reality, and that my physical body is well equipped to survive. I happily pedaled over corrugated rough roads, against a cold head wind, in the searing sunshine with a smile on my face.
In this 19th volume, I will be cycling south along the east coast to Christchurch, where we stayed with a local Warmshower host. We rented a car to gather green-lipped mussels for dinner, and drove out to the Banks Peninsula for a stunning harbor sunset. We then visited the big city sites, marveling at the amazing graffiti and rich botanical garden.
Extract: In Amberley we got some groceries and pressed another 5km to a beachfront campsite for a perfect 100km odometer reading – rewarded with a cold beer by the ocean surf. Over the next sixty kilometers we cycled from open countryside past wineries and dairy farms into the chaotic suburbia of Christchurch to find Alex’s house, a Warmshower host. The Warmshower website helps to connect touring cyclists with a place to stay with local cyclists all over the world, our Warmshower host Alex at right let us sleep in his garage for a week. The other bloke on the couch, Irish Jack, was a hilarious joke teller. After a late lunch and a few more beers we all drove out to Sumner Beach and waited for the 8pm low tide to gather green-lipped mussels from the coastal rocks for dinner.
In this 20th volume, I will be taking a train from Christchurch up to Arthur’s Pass NP. We will visit a 400′ waterfall, laugh at the Alpine-parrot Kea birds, and go tramping up Scott’s Track to witness the amazing fusion of mosses, lichen, and fungi that coat the rocks and trees, and to my surprise – a vivid rainbow in the valley below.
Extract: The unique variety of strange mosses, lichen, and fungi that crowded the bark of this tree was simply spellbinding. Mother Nature never ceases to amaze me, as the infinite
possibility of colors, shapes, and textures dance over the surface in perfect harmony. The WOW-moment, when time seems to stop and your mind is clear of any thoughts other than deep appreciation. Zen monks refer to this calm moment as no-mind, when you become one with nature, and hear her whisper secrets. Just when I thought the moment could not get any better, the sunlit mist bloomed into a stunning rainbow in the valley below! A surprisingly rare sight, despite the daily rain showers, as this is the only rainbow that I saw during my three months in New Zealand.
In this 21st volume, I will be hiking a two-day loop in the Arthur’s Pass National Park up to Lagoon Saddle. After hitch-hiking to the trailhead, we hiked up the Cass River Valley, and down to the 20-bunk Hamilton Hut. The next day we hiked up to the jaw-dropping views of Lagoon Saddle, and then down to Bealey Hut for a swim in the river.
Extract: I came to a 3-meter-wide river crossing that looked quite easy, but I slipped halfway and found myself hip deep in icy cold water. The water pressure started to push on my backpack and almost flipped me backwards. In a moment of panic, when time seemed to stand still, I reached out, gripped rock, and pulled myself out of the rushing water. I sat on the shore for a calming moment; slightly irritated that I was soaking wet, yet humbled in deep gratitude to be unhurt. Within every adventure lies the potential of real danger, often caused or averted by a split-second decision; balanced between impatience and hesitation. I truly believe that everything happens for a reason and sometimes you need a little scare to really know the power of fear, so that you can overcome this anxiety by realizing what F.E.A.R is: False Events Appearing Real.
In this 22nd volume, I will be cycling south with some new friends to Fox Glacier. I white-knuckled a very steep descent from Arthur’s Pass down to the west coast highway, where we surprisingly served as first responders to an auto accident, and joined up with two more cyclists to create a proper bike gang on the way down to Fox Glacier.
Extract: We rode onward through lush mountain valleys, alternating between drizzle and rain. Then, just when I thought I couldn’t take the deluge any longer, the rains finally let up. We were both surprised when the clouds parted and we could bask in the blue skies. Today we rode 75km southbound, just out of sight of, but parallel to the ocean’s roar. We met an Irish cycling couple who recommended the upcoming MacDonald campsite. At 8pm we arrived at the MacDonald campsite and pitched our tents in the sunset light. I cooked my pasta dinner, very thankful for a pain free day, as my hip pain has subsided.
In this 23rd volume, I will hike with my cycling friends along the legendary Copland Track. After pedaling from Fox Glacier to the trail, we hiked 18km along a turquoise-blue river; traveled through spooky fern forests and timidly crossing over a trio of huge suspension bridges to the Welcome Flat’s hot springs.
Extract: Our seven-hour hike to Welcome Flat Hut began with a knee-deep river crossing initiation. A well-worn, single-track path wove through the dense forest with orange triangle markers. We rock-hopped over a series of stunning streams that were lined with yellow wildflowers. The trail rambled along over river-polished black rocks through an amazing fern forest. As we emerged from the forest, we were greeted by the turquoise-blue Copland River. Back into the tree cover, the winding trail continued along river-rock-lined creek beds. A painter’s palette of colors covered the black rocks – a masterpiece of mosses and lichen.
In this 24th volume, I will be cycling with four friends down the west coast to Haast Pass. We backtracked along the spectacular 18km Copland Track to the coastal highway and cycled south along the Tasman Sea; riding along towering ocean cliffs overlooking smooth black rock islands that were coated with sea lions on our way down to Haast.
Extract: I’m sunburnt but grinning as my ginger beard and I walk through this fairytale landscape. We finished the 18km return hike to the trailhead, yet it seemed shorter the second time. At 4pm we collected our bikes at the Copland Track trailhead, and started pedaling south. After 25km the highway broke through the dense forest to the Tasman Sea coastline. At 6pm, after a 50km afternoon tour we arrived at the DOC Lake Paringa Campsite. I quickly pitched my tent, cleaned three liters of water, and cooked pasta in the twilight.
Tomorrow will be an easy 50km to Haast for laundry and a hot shower – both are overdue.
In this 25th volume, I will be taking a tourist bus from Haast down to Queenstown, as I surrender to a painful knee issue. In the capital city I painted the town pink with a gang of backpackers, packed my bike and cycle gear in a bike box, hiked up to the top gondola station, and bravely took a leap-of-faith off the bungee jumping platform.
Extract: I slept really well last night after I made my decision and discussed it with the guys that I should take a rest day here in Haast and then a bus to Queenstown. I’m sad to break the momentum of cycling with Andy and Adam, but really glad that I’m listening to my body and not my ego. Besides, I’ve cycled 3,000km and that was my goal. I stowed my bike under the bus and took a comfy seat next to a huge window, happy with my decision to enjoy four sunny days in Queenstown then to pedal in pain. The bus climbed steep mountain switchbacks until we reached the saddle of Haast Pass. After a few snowflakes, the clouds opened up to reveal the top of Mt. Haast at 1,587m. At 6pm we finally arrived in downtown Queenstown. I found a great hostel with a hot tub on the back patio where I soaked for an hour in the drizzle and watched the hazy sunset.
Come join me for this 60-image photo journal as I cycle and hike across New Zealand. This 26th volume is a collection of my favorite adventures while traveling down the North Island of New Zealand. After sailing from Auckland to Coromandel, I cycled the Karangahake Gorge, visited the Hobbiton Shire, and did a hike outside of Rotorua. Next, I biked past the Rere Waterfalls and Lake Waikaremoana to Taupo for tramping the Tongariro Crossing. I pedaled the Forgotten World Highway to Stratford to climb Mount Taranaki, and then pushed down the west coasts to windy Wellington. I hope you enjoy these images and travel thoughts as much as I did photographing them and living the adventure.
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